I received a p.m. from someone with questions about where to stay in Dhorpatan so I thought I might as well answer them here.
I trekked Lower Dolpo via Dho Tarap,the 2 high passes, down to the lake and then over to Pungmo Valley and over the Kagmara Pass to Jumla.
This year I started in Juphal again but went clockwise, going up to Ringmo and then over the 2 passes to DhoTarap, then over the Jang La Pass to enter the Dhorpatan region. I figured that weather wise it would be better to go that direction and we did have perfect weather except for the rain and hail one day after we set up camp above Sahar Tara going up the Jang La Pass.
Walking up the river towards Ringmo was beautiful. The first day we encountered a young woman who was going to her village past Saldang to visit her mother. She knew my guide so she walked with us until the lake. She was very nice to me, checking that I was doing ok on the way up. Her father owns a hotel in Ringmo just above where trekkers camp. It had no sign but its name is the Kanjirowa Hotel. I ate meals there because the guide knew the family.The young woman spoke English really well so I learned a lot from her.
After 2 days she and her father headed towards Shey Gompa and we headed towards Dho Tarap. I was not happy about not being able to find someone for the Upper Dolpo section that begins at the lake.The woman had told me that snow leoprds had killed over 200 goats and sheep last winter.
About 45 minutes outside of Ringmo we encountered 2 men on the trail cutting out the vital organs of 3 domestic goats that had had their throats slashed by a snow leopard. The leopard had dragged them down the mountain side and soon a woman came up from below lugging another goat. We headed towards the passes and after the lake never stayed anywhere where there were other trekkers. We never saw any trekkers going in our direction although we did meet some going in the opposite direction.
We stayed in Dho Tarap for a few days and eventually arrived to a nice camping spot with mani stones just below Tara Bagar. On the trail from Laini to Tara Bagar, as usual, I was walking alone, and I saw a ghoral who paused to look at me and then leaped down mountain.
We visited the gompa near Sahartara and camped much higher up to get a head start on the Jang La Pass. That evening the mule driver and porters went out to smoke out a wasp nest that had found. They later brought back larvae to cook up. In the morning the mules were no where to be found but the guys caught up with us by early afternoon, mules included.
We camped at a spot referred to as Purbang just below where people looking for yartsagumba camp. There wasn’t that much trash. The sight of a small Fessis Wheel (ferris?) was a bit surreal.
The next day called for us to camp at Puphal Phedi which was a small flat spot next to the river filthy with animal droppings. We went a ways more and stayed above the river.
On the way to Dhule there is a structure just off the trail which was clean and had wonderful mountain views. It had room for several people but you would want something like a pad to sleep on. It is about an hour above Dhule.
Dhule has a handful of houses and a few lodges. The porters and mules returned towards Dunai at this point.
From Dhuli we went to Kayam where the place to stay was filthy. There are only a few houses there. Between Dhule and Kayam we descended down to Tatopani which has one house next to a big river. The L.P. book says that the hot springs are tiny there. There is a tiny spot next to the river, but a few minutes away on the tributary there is a cemented in pool with space for 10 or so people. A dog tagged along from the hot springs and the next day I woke up to find that he had slept in my room in Kayam.
He headed with us towards Thankur until we reached a metal suspension bridge that spells trouble for a dog’s paws. He went down the raging river banks to look for a possible crossing but thank God he gave up. Thankur has a few houses and they both offer lodging. On the way to Thankur I saw 2 serow bounding down the mountain side.
Going up the pass to reach Dhorpatan village had the best extended mountain views of the trek.We did not reach Dhorpatan until just before dark so it might be a good idea if you are going from Dhorpatan to Thankur to go up part of the pass and then finish the next day. You would also have a better chance of having clear mountain views on the other side.
A jeep came for us in Dhorpatan.The valley below is beautiful with lots of glimpses into traditional village life.
Nov 21, 2018, 11:32 PM Santa Cruz, California · 49 forum posts #11 of 13 ·
I am wondering about treks coming from the Mustang side through Upper Dolpo and down to Phoksundo… I am wondering if the mules go along for the whole way to Juphal. It seems like a long ways for the crew to go back to Jomson but maybe they take a more southerly route, perhaps via Mukot.
I have been the only person the last 2 years with a support staff of 5 men and 4 or 5 mules. I have stuck to Lower Dolpo. It seemed a bit much for 1 person and adding to the expense is tipping everyone.
This year when we arrived in Dhule, 3 of the guys and the mules went back over Jang La pass to Dunai because there were places to stay on the Dhorpatan side. That saved some money. I am thinking that if you come from Mustang the mules could return when you reach the lake because there are places to stay when you are going to Juphal.
For people trekking from Beni to Dolpo like May Yakee having mules and the whole support staff would not seem needed and should reduce the trek cost considerably. If people were carrying some of there own gear they could bring a tent for JaJa La Pass or the guide/porter could carry it. If you go in May, May Yakee you will encounter people going to and already at the yartsa gumba areas up Jang La Pass. This could be good or maybe it will make it hard to find a place to camp…
If the monsoon has started it won’t be much fun. I had just about perfect weather in late September and 3 weeks into October. There were a number of pack animals around Dhule so maybe you could use some for Jang La and then go down the pass to Dunai where the crew for Dolpo side could meet you.
I trekked Dhorpatan in April of 2015 with a guide/porter. I think the 15 days trip cost 600$.
We started in the SW corner and headed to Dhorpatan village which is an option if you want to see more of the culture. It is a beautiful route.
The earthquake happened when we were just past Dhorpatan in the tiny Tibetan refugee village of Chhyantu. I wanted to visit there this year and give a present to the man whose house we were drinking tea in when the quakes started but the day I was planning on going there the guide said we had to leave early in a jeep from Dhorpatan. If you pass by there, please give him my regards and as he said when we asked him how much we owed him « maybe next time. »
On 2018-11-22 11:04:44 UTC, achitrakar500369925 replied to the topic ‘answering qs about dhorpatan to lower dolpo trek’ in our Asia – Indian Subcontinent forum:
Hi there, we are Nepal Sanctuary Treks, a trekking company based in Kathmandu, Nepal. We provide our clients with an overall package that is needed during a trek, fromequipments, guides, porter etc. You’ll definitely get a lifetime experience ifyou opt for us.
The Upper Dolpa Trek is a challenging trek; you are likely to trek for 6-7 hours a day and cross steep hills and high passes. Dolpa region is situated between the Tibetan plateau and Dhaulagiri ranges.
You can contact us if you want to get more information:
Nepal Sanctuary Treks,